I’ve been home for a week and have finally gotten around to work on my surfing hobby. This journey represents getting over many of my fears as well as pushing my physical and mental health to better levels. I took my first surf lesson nearly 5 years ago…it was free…basically a few friends took me to Pacific Beach in San Diego, gave me a board, a short verbal instruction, and then left me to fend for myself. I’ve tried on my own 2 other times over the last 3 years, renting a board at the beach and giving it my best shot.
My favorite surf song:
First, learning to surf is difficult. One reason includes proximity to a decent location (moving to CA helped as Ohio was low on the list). Another is physical fitness level; moreover, I have the endurance and strength, but lack the balance and also have muscle imbalances created by excessive running. Then, there is the Ocean, the most unpredictable act of nature that this sport is dependant upon. Finally, you don’t know what you don’t know. Sure, I figured a few things out on my own and by observing others. But until today I felt kind of lost.
I got up super early and carpooled with a random stranger, John, to San Onofre State Beach close to Camp Pendleton. I’ve been to this beach once before to watch a sunset. It has a really rocky bottom starting where the sand meets the water. At low tide you can see how crazy it is. You have to do this sort of “parents walking barefoot through a living room of legos” walk to get out to the deeper water. Being a Sunday morning, this place was packed!
Here is a live cam:
John turned out to be a really great instructor. He was suggested to me through a meetup group I joined. He is currently working on earning his Nursing certification for retirement healthcare centers. He teaches surfing lessons on the side. He fit the mold of what the stereotypical surfer talks and looks like (tan where the wet suit did not cover; speaking the slang). Here is what I learned:
- There is a Right-of-way (give way if someone already has the wave)
- Observe the waves before starting…
- Pop up-
- gotta center on the board
- don’t stand straight up – stay low
- arms out – don’t T-rex
- too far forward (gas pedal), board dives
- too far back (break), the wave rolls under you
- don’t keep your feet together
- don’t position your feet too wide
- don’t lean at your waist over the edge of the board.
- Get the correct sized board
Right now, for me, surfing is not graceful and mostly involves me falling off the board a whole bunch. Here is a youtube video of a similar animated experience:
